Vinhos
Jennifer Rosen,
Waiter, There's a Horse in my Wine,
2005
- 455 - Trumpeter Reserve 2003 (tinto)
Região: Argentina Castas: Tempranillo, Malbec e Cabernet Sauvignon Produtor: Bodega La Rural Familia Rutini Wines Preço: Entre 7.5€ e 10€ Álcool: 13% Enólogo: Mariano Di Paola Notas de Prova: Cor muito fechada, aromas frutados , especialmente...
- O Futuro Visto Pelo Robert Parker
Robert M. Parker, Jr., o mais famoso crítico de vinhos do mundo e a pessoa que mais poder de influência tem no mundo do vinho nos dias de hoje, ignorado por uns e admirado por outros, fez 12 previsões acerca das mudanças que o mundo do vinho irá...
- Colinas '2006
A principle of wine commentating is that certain consumers wish to learn about actual wines to purchase and also wine culture. A tough fact is that the higher-earning demographic sectors buy more wine and also higher priced wine — and they are busy...
-
It was a simple question. "Can you remember the last day you didn't have a drink?" Laura asked in her calm, soothing voice. She wasn't threatening or nagging. She did expect an answer. My wife is the kind of person who picks her moments. This...
-
De uma "carta aos editores" do Journal of Wine Economics, assinada por Jeffrey Postman e incluída no recente (2010) vol. 5, nº1; pp. 184-187 (link) — A study by Plassman et al. from the California Institute of Technology and the Stanford Graduate...
Vinhos
Some wines are made by assembly line; unflawed, perfect and perfectly boring. Others are less predictable, sometimes showing the little quirks that make wine lovers shiver with excitement.
Earth, usually the mark of a European wine, can add that frisson. In Burgundy, that means leaves rotting on the forest floor. It could also be rich, loamy compost. Or the dusty smell of bone-dry corrals and wind over the barren prairie. Oh, wait, that's my lawn.
Do you like your Riesling regular or unleaded? This grape is famous for developing aromas of diesel, although some people prefer to call it honeycomb, another waxy, petrol product. Cat pee shows up commonly in Sauvignon Blanc, especially in the twangy, New Zealand variety.
These are good things. A bad one is the cork-born contaminant, TCA, usually described as musty, dank basement, wet cardboard, or dirty gym socks.
If your nose tingles from lively acid or from the black pepper odors in wines like Syrah and Grüner Veltliner, that's lovely. If it prickles from sulfur dioxide, like when you smell a burnt match, or from the vinegary sting of volatile acidity, that's a problem.
Let's recap:
Damp Forest: good / Damp Cellar: bad.
Garage: good / Locker Room: bad.
Tingle: good / Prickle: bad.
How's a neophyte to know?
Often good and bad are the same chemical at work, in different concentrations. A small amount of ethyl phenol gives left-bank Bordeaux its sophisticated, mens-club aroma of tobacco and new saddle leather. Too much, and you get sweaty saddle and the horse it rode in on.
Since a hint of this can garner very high ratings, winemakers sit around figuring out how to encourage it without letting the responsible yeast and bacteria get out of hand and take over the winery.
The "correct" amount is purely subjective. Some people like more funk in their wine than others. It tends to be a European taste.
Which begs the question: do we expect, tolerate, even like funky stuff in wine simply because for so long it couldn't be prevented? Should wine, ideally, be totally clean, tasting only of fruit?
Might as well ask if blue cheese should be bleached, or if jerky should be re-hydrated. Lots of food that began as an accident ended up a delicacy.
Once you've been introduced to the gross things in good wine, you can decide for yourself what's a fault and what's a beauty mark. The only fault we can all agree upon — by far the worst — is the one where the cork is out of the bottle and there appears to be no wine inside.
Earth, usually the mark of a European wine, can add that frisson. In Burgundy, that means leaves rotting on the forest floor. It could also be rich, loamy compost. Or the dusty smell of bone-dry corrals and wind over the barren prairie. Oh, wait, that's my lawn.
Do you like your Riesling regular or unleaded? This grape is famous for developing aromas of diesel, although some people prefer to call it honeycomb, another waxy, petrol product. Cat pee shows up commonly in Sauvignon Blanc, especially in the twangy, New Zealand variety.
These are good things. A bad one is the cork-born contaminant, TCA, usually described as musty, dank basement, wet cardboard, or dirty gym socks.
If your nose tingles from lively acid or from the black pepper odors in wines like Syrah and Grüner Veltliner, that's lovely. If it prickles from sulfur dioxide, like when you smell a burnt match, or from the vinegary sting of volatile acidity, that's a problem.
Let's recap:
Damp Forest: good / Damp Cellar: bad.
Garage: good / Locker Room: bad.
Tingle: good / Prickle: bad.
How's a neophyte to know?
Often good and bad are the same chemical at work, in different concentrations. A small amount of ethyl phenol gives left-bank Bordeaux its sophisticated, mens-club aroma of tobacco and new saddle leather. Too much, and you get sweaty saddle and the horse it rode in on.
Since a hint of this can garner very high ratings, winemakers sit around figuring out how to encourage it without letting the responsible yeast and bacteria get out of hand and take over the winery.
The "correct" amount is purely subjective. Some people like more funk in their wine than others. It tends to be a European taste.
Which begs the question: do we expect, tolerate, even like funky stuff in wine simply because for so long it couldn't be prevented? Should wine, ideally, be totally clean, tasting only of fruit?
Might as well ask if blue cheese should be bleached, or if jerky should be re-hydrated. Lots of food that began as an accident ended up a delicacy.
Once you've been introduced to the gross things in good wine, you can decide for yourself what's a fault and what's a beauty mark. The only fault we can all agree upon — by far the worst — is the one where the cork is out of the bottle and there appears to be no wine inside.
Jennifer Rosen,
Waiter, There's a Horse in my Wine,
2005
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- 455 - Trumpeter Reserve 2003 (tinto)
Região: Argentina Castas: Tempranillo, Malbec e Cabernet Sauvignon Produtor: Bodega La Rural Familia Rutini Wines Preço: Entre 7.5€ e 10€ Álcool: 13% Enólogo: Mariano Di Paola Notas de Prova: Cor muito fechada, aromas frutados , especialmente...
- O Futuro Visto Pelo Robert Parker
Robert M. Parker, Jr., o mais famoso crítico de vinhos do mundo e a pessoa que mais poder de influência tem no mundo do vinho nos dias de hoje, ignorado por uns e admirado por outros, fez 12 previsões acerca das mudanças que o mundo do vinho irá...
- Colinas '2006
A principle of wine commentating is that certain consumers wish to learn about actual wines to purchase and also wine culture. A tough fact is that the higher-earning demographic sectors buy more wine and also higher priced wine — and they are busy...
-
It was a simple question. "Can you remember the last day you didn't have a drink?" Laura asked in her calm, soothing voice. She wasn't threatening or nagging. She did expect an answer. My wife is the kind of person who picks her moments. This...
-
De uma "carta aos editores" do Journal of Wine Economics, assinada por Jeffrey Postman e incluída no recente (2010) vol. 5, nº1; pp. 184-187 (link) — A study by Plassman et al. from the California Institute of Technology and the Stanford Graduate...